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Maccheroni Alla Chitarra Recipe

Recipe by Pedro M. A. Neves

Maccheroni alla chitarra is a traditional pasta from the Abruzzo region of Italy, shaped by drawing dough across a guitar-like stringed tool that creates distinctive square-cut strands. This rustic dish is typically served with a robust meat ragù or simple tomato sauce that clings to the pasta's textured surface. The handmade quality and unique preparation method make this an authentic expression of southern Italian home cooking.

Ingredients

• 300g durum wheat semolina
• 100g all-purpose flour
• 150ml warm water
• 2g salt
• 50g unsalted butter
• 300g ground beef
• 150g ground pork
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 2 carrots, finely diced
• 2 celery stalks, finely diced
• 400g canned San Marzano tomatoes
• 60ml whole milk
• 30ml dry white wine
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 bay leaves
• Salt and black pepper to taste
• 30g Pecorino Romano cheese, grated

Instructions

1. Combine 300g durum wheat semolina and 100g all-purpose flour on a clean work surface, creating a mound with a central well. Gradually pour 150ml warm water into the well while incorporating flour from the sides using a fork until a shaggy dough forms. Knead for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth, elastic, and no longer sticky, adding water or flour as needed.

2. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. This allows gluten to develop and makes the dough easier to work with through the chitarra.

3. Heat 50g butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the finely diced onion, carrot, and celery (the soffritto base) and sauté for 5 minutes until softened and fragrant.

4. Add 300g ground beef and 150g ground pork to the pot, breaking apart with a wooden spoon. Cook for 8 minutes, stirring frequently, until the meat is browned and any liquid has evaporated.

5. Pour in 60ml dry white wine and simmer for 2 minutes to reduce. Add the minced garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant, then add 400g canned tomatoes (crushed by hand), 2 bay leaves, and salt and pepper to taste.

6. Reduce heat to low and simmer the ragù uncovered for 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in 60ml whole milk at the end and simmer for 2 more minutes. The sauce should be thick and deeply flavored; adjust seasoning to taste.

7. While the ragù simmers, divide the rested dough into 4 equal portions. Working with one portion at a time, flatten it slightly and feed it through the chitarra (or pasta guitar) lengthwise, using a small wooden dowel or the tool's included scraper to press the dough through the strings.

8. Lay the fresh pasta on a floured wooden board to dry slightly for 5 minutes while preparing the remaining portions.

9. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add all the fresh maccheroni alla chitarra and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook for 3-4 minutes until the pasta rises to the surface and is tender but still slightly al dente.

10. Drain the pasta in a colander, reserving 120ml pasta cooking water. Transfer the drained pasta to the pot with the ragù, add 30g grated Pecorino Romano cheese, and toss gently over low heat for 1 minute, adding reserved pasta water as needed to achieve a creamy consistency. Divide into bowls and serve immediately.

Substitutions

• Use 300g ground lamb instead of beef for a more robust, traditional mountain variation
• Replace ground pork and beef with 300g ground veal for a lighter, more delicate ragù
• Substitute Pecorino Romano with Parmigiano-Reggiano for a milder, slightly less sharp finish
• Use vegetable broth and omit meat entirely, doubling the soffritto vegetables and adding mushrooms for a vegetarian version

Tips

• A chitarra is essential for authentic maccheroni alla chitarra—this specialized tool creates the characteristic square cross-section that distinguishes the pasta; if unavailable, use a pasta machine set to the thickest setting and cut into 3-4mm strands
• Fresh semolina pasta cooks very quickly (3-4 minutes); test after 3 minutes to avoid overcooking
• The ragù can be made 1-2 days ahead and reheated gently before tossing with pasta, which actually improves flavor development
• Reserve pasta water generously; its starch helps create a silky sauce that coats the textured pasta surface

Maccheroni alla chitarra originates from Abruzzo in central Italy, where it remains a cornerstone of home and trattoria cooking. The chitarra (literally 'guitar') is a traditional handcrafted tool unique to this region, and making this pasta by hand is considered a point of pride and cultural identity for Abruzzese cooks.

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